Our UK Vacation 2006

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Following is an account of our trip to England, with pictures. The page with all the pictures is available here: UK Pictures .

Week 1: November 4-11,2006

Our flight to England this year was in the evening, ensuring that as usual we would get no sleep at all. I had procured a super duper swizzy new blow-up pillow, shaped like one of the ancient pyramids of Egypt, except with a squashed part on the top to accomodate the head. This device rested on the tray table, and was marginally better than nothing at all. Oh well, we arrived at Heathrow on Saturday morning, shattered as usual, got into our rental car (after a droll interlude of getting settled in the wrong one first) and set off for the south.

The beautiful south Downs

How familiar the roads now, and the mellow and verdant countryside! There is one moment at the top of a rise in the road where you suddenly are confronted with the South Downs: a huge sweep of magnificent hill and field--brilliantly green, with flocks of seagulls swooping above, specks of white floating in the enormous sky. This picture doesn't begin to do it justice...

We stopped for brunch at Leatherhead, in the same tiny restaurant we had breakfasted with Arabella on a trip a couple years ago. A charming little tea room where the locals gather for a plate of eggs and bacon, all cooked and delivered by amazingly pretty young women. Then, another hour or so to our snug cottage by the sea, 25 Mariner's Walk, in Rustington. We had dinner with the Hares, and so to bed.

End of the street

Beach view Hours of deep sleep left us much refreshed, and we took stock of our home for the next two weeks-very nice indeed! The bungalows lining the street are modest one story affairs, comfortable and well tended--and the shining sea is right at the end of the street, bordered by a green sward where dogs are walked from morning to night. We took many walks on the beach ourselves, enjoying the stunning views along the shingled shore.

Beautiful NiecesWe had lunch with Jenny et al., and for the first time saw her house in the daylight. An agreeable home, very much filled with children.

Swans on the ArunThe next day, we drove to Arundel and walked around that lovely town, checking out the charming antique stores and imagining ourselves buying the knick knacks and jewelry we saw. The idea was that we were searching for a swank restaurant to take John and Jane to during their visit with us, and we found LOTS of them. In the event, however, we decided to entertain chez nous.

Belindas's Meanwhile, we had a splendid lunch at Belinda's-an ancient old place, dark and cosy.

Lunch at the Fox That week, The Hares took us to lunch at the Fox, a jolly old-fashioned pub of the sort that Pickwick and his pals might well have taken refreshment at. The hills and fields stretch around it, green with that amazing English green, even in November.

Lunch in Romney

The next day we set off for a day trip to Portsmouth and the shipyard there. On the way, we stopped in Romney for a lovely lunch with our friends Peter and Esther at a fine pub near their house, with the walls a glowing deep crimson, and a crackling fire in the hearth. Very pleasant.

the VictoryThen, on to the shipyard, so very redolent of Jack and Stephen and the whole POB series. You could almost see them hurrying through the gates, shouting to friends, going aboard their ship. We took a tour of the the Victory:many horrifying steep ladders, very dark confined spaces, and the tour guides description of the stink below was very convincing. The drive back was in rush hour: lines of crawling traffic in deep countryside: odd, very.

Week 2: November 11-18,2006

Saturday, the heating died. There had been horrifying noises aloft (what Lawrence described as Marley clanking his chains) culminating in a cacophony of shrieks. Then, silence and all the radiators went cold. Not to worry, the cottage owners gave us a number to call, a stout fellow from British Gas was summoned to our aid-he strode in whistling a happy tune, opened the ceiling, replaced the pump and bingo! Heat!

Little Hampton Harbour After that we drove to Littlehampton, and took a very long walk along the water and into the town. A lovely little place. Even though it doesn't have an internet caffe. Have I mentioned how much I missed internet access?

St. Margaret's ChurchRemembrance Sunday! John and Jane proceeded from Canterbury in the morning: we had agreed to make rendez-vous at Amberly Castle, where our Festive Lunch was to be held. While they were drinking in the beauty of the verdant countryside on their 3-hour drive, we were making ready for the Remembrance day service at St. Margaret's, the ancient church attended by the infant Lawrence throughout his childhood.

Remembrance day ceremony in AmgmeringOnce duly accoutered, we drove to Angmering and met the Hares in the church, sang the familiar psalms, said the beautiful old prayers, listened to the sermon, and eventually walked out into the sunshine of a rather brisk morning, to watch the wreath ceremony at Angmering monument. There was a marching band, many winsome children, and altogether a charming occasion. We have MANY pictures.

Amberly CastleThen, off to lunch at Amberly Castle, again through the most beautiful vistas and views imaginable. John and Jane were there, and we had a merry meeting.

Drinks in the castle libraryDrinks in the library by the crackling fire, and then--OH my, up 2 steep flights of steps to the King Charles dining room: a wood paneled room, with its own fireplace, very resplendent. Except that Lawrence's poor mum has bad knees, and she blenched at the prospect of all those stairs. Difficult! But never mind, she made it up and down them, with the help of her son. The lunch was superb-absolutely superb.Though not as you might say CHEAP. Good though! Once home, we took a long walk with John and Jane, stopped at the Lamb for a drink, and then home for a bang-up supper of cheese and cold meats. And lots of wine. Great chat, great evening.

Dinner with London palsOn Tuesday, we took the train for London, eating our sandwiches peacefully on the train as we read or gazed at the country side. Once in London, we headed for the V&A, and saw two excellent shows, the Leonardo da Vinci designs, and Renaissance home life. Both engrossing, both crammed with detail.

Tea at the Hares

Then, tea at the Hoggarts, where we were spending the night--their house lovely as always, an elegant and civilized home, full of books and pictures. We chatted, met the Brummers and Whites for dinner at a bistro, and took the train back to Sussex the next morning. First taking a moment to go see the Christmas decorations at Harrod's and Harvey Nicholl's--which latter were boffo. Once back in Rustington, we proceeded to one of those non-stop calorie fest teas at the Hares, featuring cakes, crumpets, and pies, with butter for accompaniment. I manage to restrict myself to a cup of tea at these affairs, but Lawrence goes into a major feeding frenzy.

Goodbye Lunch at the Fox

The beautiful south Downs

Back to the Fox for a goodbye lunch, this time with the Hares and Jenny et al., and us picking up the tab. Which wasn't that much, considering. Afterwards, Lawrence and I walked up on the hills, very very windy but very refreshing. Then, home to pack, and the next morning, off to Heathrow. Our two weeks gone in a flash. On the drive back, we stopped to take one last look at the beautiful Downs, and then headed north for the airport and home.

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